Mizo silhfen tobul leh hmasawn zel dan – B. Lalthangliana

MIZO SILHFEN TOBUL LEH HMASAWN ZEL DAN
(Origin and Development of Mizo Costume)

B.Lalthangliana

Ziaktu hmasa zahawm tak tak Rev. Liangkhaia te, Pu V.L. Siama te, Pu Lalmama te, Pu Lalsuaka te leh Pu Remkunga te ziak dan hi a inang tlangpui a, hetiang hian lo hlawm chhuak ila:  “…Mizo chanchina kan hriat phak hla ber chu Run kam thlang lamah chi bik nei lovin, mahni chi chiin an awm tih chauh a ni. Chung lai chuan kan thlahtute chuan la chin dan an la hriat loh avangin an saruak hle an ti. Mipaho chuan ‘hnawkhal’ an ti a, hruikhau phiar hi kawr ang reng hian an siam a, an ha thin a… hmeichhia lah chuan chutiang hruikhau hrual chu an feng mai a, chu chu ‘Siapsuap’ an ti a ni… Run kama an awm lai chu a rei lam pawh kum AD 1500 vel lai a ni ang….”

Hnawkhal image, Hnawkhal thlalak, hnawkhal photo, hnawkhal picture, traditional mizo dress, oldest mizo dress
Hnawkhal

 

Siapsuap image, siapsuap photo, siapsuap picture, lalrammuana sailo, mizoram images,
Siapsuap

 

“…Nakinah nikhua a lo rei hnuah, Len tlang an lo chuan chhuah a, a pang thlang lam te an lo thLen chinah erawh chuan, mi ang deuhin an khawsa awm e. ‘Dawlrem kawr’ an ti a, kawr dum, a lai rang rek ruk hi an siam thiam ta a, chu chu rei tak an ching…. ‘Tawlhloh puan’ an kawrtawng hak a, tlan lo tur entirna a ni… Len tlang an lo chuan chhuah hnuah chauh buhchang an ching ni awmin kan hria….” tiin.1

Heng kum upa leh ziaktu hmasate sulhnu hi han hnawl mai chi zawng a ni hauh lo a. A piah lam daihte chhuia zau taka dapin chik deuh takin i lo zir teh ang.

Walter A. Fair Servis (Jr) chuan ar Ieh lawi vulh te, buh chin te, thing hih theih hrui inbel te, ban sang deuh phuna in sak te, tattoo inchhut ṭial te, inthawi te, thang hmanga ramsa man te, sangha man dan ṭhenkhat leh ei tur chhum te hi South East Asia aṭanga chin ṭan niin a ring a… BC 1500 velah Burma ramah ar hi a awm ṭan ang a, mihringin an khawi ngam tan niin a ring bawk.2

 Prof. Dr. Tan Thun-a chuan BC 1000 velah khan coconut hnah in chungah hmangin a chhuatah mau phel phah in an nei ang a: silhfen te deuh tak, kawng khuh thei emaw chauh an nei rih a, an veng mai a, a vawh erawh chuan puanin an inkhuh ang a; tattoo inchhut an ching ang a, ramhuai an be ṭhinin a ring thung.3

Tunlaia Mizo hnahthlak kan tih zawng zawng thlahtute chu, a tawi zawngin, Tibet chhim chhak, China ram hmar lam Kansu bialah BC 2000 vel khan Tibeto-Burman hlawm zingah tel vein kan ring a. Lo tawlh thla zelin Burma hmar thlang Hukaung Valley-ah tawlh lutin, Chindwin luipui zawh thla zelin tunlaia Kawlphai kan tih tak Kabaw valley (Tahan-Khampat- Tamu phai)-ah hian kum 800 – 850 AD velah an thlengin a lang a. Hetah hian kum 400 emaw lai inbengbelin in leh lo, ei leh bar, silh leh fen leh khawsak phung hniam lutuk loin an cheng ta niin a rinawm.

Kawl (Burmese) ho hi Burma-ah kum 832-5 velah an lut a.4 Kum 1044-1287 chhung khan Pagan Dynasty ropui ve tak an din a, mel 8 bial velah Pagoda 4,000 an siam pawh hmuh theihin a la awm a. Mizo pi pute hi Kawlho nen hian inhnaih takin an khawsain a lang a, an ṭawng te, naupang infiamna ṭhenkhat te leh rimawi hrang hrang an neih te pawh a inang hle a. Hengte avang hian Kawl phaia pi pute an chen lai hian an dinhmun leh silhfente pawh a hniam lutuk bik loin kan ring a ni.

China ram Yunnan biala cheng Shan-ho chu Mongolho nawr avangin Burma ram hmar lamah an tawlh lut hum hum a. Kum 1215 AD khan khua te an din tawh a. Khawthlang lamah tawlh thla zelin kum 1229 AD khan tuna Assam tia koh takah hian Ahom Dynasty an din hial.5 Heng Shan-ho hian thlamuang taka khawsa pi pute chu Kawlphai aṭangin an nawr chhuak ni ngeiin a hriat a. A rem rem inkawpin an darh ta chum chum a, hmun hrang hrang an pan hlawm a. A hlawm lian ber chuan tuna Chin state ti a koh tak hi an pan a, kum 1200 AD velah chuan Kawlphai hi an chhuahsan fel awm e.

A hlawm lian berin an pan Chin state hmar lama Than tlang hi a sang hle a, feet 8,871 lai tlingte pawh a awm a, a vawt em em lehnghal a. Tin, Run lui hi a kuang a thukin a kam tawn tawn a chhengchhe nasa a, a leilung a chhe bawk a. Chuvangin helai vela chengte chuan vaimim te, bal te, kawlbahra te, fangra te, buhtun te leh busul te chu an chawpui ber a ni lo thei lo. A vawh em avangin buh a vui thei lo a, la a par thei hek lo.

Hetiang hi an dinhmun a lo nih tak avang hian, Kawlphaia an chen laia an silhfen a chhe zo a, han lam leh turin hmelma an lo awm tawh si a. Imphal lam emaw, Silchar lam emaw an la pawh pha bawk si lo. Chuvangin an culture a lo hnungtawlh ta duai a. Ziaktu hmasate sawi ang khan an saruak hle’ lo thei lo a, ‘Siapsuap’ leh ‘Hnawkhal’ te an inbel ta an lo tih kha a pawmawm hle a ni. Hetih hun hi kum 1250 – 1400 AD vel emaw, a aia rei lo deuh emaw a ni mai thei e.

Pi pute Len Tlang an thlen chuan an ram a parh ṭha deuhin leilung a ṭha bawk a, a vawt lutuk ta lo bawk a. Chuvangin buh a vui thei a, la a par thei ta bawk a, thlai chi hrang hrang an ching a. Tichuan an culture chuan hma a sawn ta hle a ni. Hetah hian zir chian ngai tak chu, Than tlang leh Run kam vela an chen lai, kum 1250 – 1400 velah khan silhfenah hniamin saruak deuhthawin an awm na a, Len tlang an chuan chhuah chuan silhfen an puah thiam a, Dawlrem kawr leh Tawlhloh puan te an tah thiam tih ziaktu hmasaten an sawi a, a dangte pawh an tah thiam ngeiin a rinawm.

Hengte tah thei tur chuan Herawt leh Hmui leh hmanraw chi hrang hrang a mamawh tih kan hre ṭheuh ang a. Heng Hmui leh Herawt te hi a mechanism a sang hle a, puan tah thei tura hnahchawi eng emaw zat a ṭul dan te leh kut them thiam a pawimawhzia te kan hre ṭheuh ang a. Hmui technology sanzia te mawlh hi zir tham a tling ve a ni.

Hengte avang hian khi-ah, China, Tibet ramri vela an awm lai hian an lo changkang ve thawkhat viau a, Kawlphaia an chen lai phei hi chuan an hniam bik lo hlein a lang a. Than tlang leh Run kam vela an chen lai hian, an environment-in a zir loh tak em avangin an culture a hnungtawlh ta duai a. Mahse Len tlang an thlen a, an environment-in a zir ve leh an thluaka awm, an inrochun chhawn zel chu a lo nung a, an culture chuan hma a lo sawn leh ta dawrh niin kan zir chhuak ve a ni.

Hengte avang hian Mizo silhfen ṭobul chu, Than tlang leh Run kam velah ni ngawt loin, China leh Tibet ramri vela an chen lai, kum zabi 4-na (AD) velah niin kan ring a ni. Upaten Mizo silhfena an sawi theih hmanlai ber kha lo umzui leh lawk ila. Siapsuap hi chu a pawmawm hle a, kum 1950 vel thleng khan Mizoram khaw kilkhawr deuhahte chuan hmeichhe naupang fel deuh pawhin an la feng tih hmuh a ni a.

Hnawkhal hi lo zir chiang deuh ila, Hnawkhal an inbel dan hi upa ka zawt hnem hle tawh a, sawi thei ka la tawng lo. Tuna Mizoram Museum-a dah hi Carcy and Tuck chuan Chin rain coat an ti a;6 N.E. Parry chuan, Lakher rain coat a ti thung.7 Mizote erawh chuan ruah sur laia an hman ṭhin Siksil an nei ve bawk a, Lalruanga thawnthuah pawh a lan tawh kha. A thuhrimin, hmeichhiate chuan thup tur pahnih, hnute leh zahmawh, an nei a. Chutih lai chuan an serh chauh thupna Siapsuap an inbel a. Thup tur chi khat chauh serh nei mipain an taksa pum deuhthaw hliah thei, tuna Mizoram Museum-a mi ang an inbela dah hi a natural lo a, a reasonable lo deuhin a lang.

Pu V.L. Siama chuan, “Hruikhau hi hlai deuh hlek, kutphah tia velin an hik a, an kawngah hruia hrengin an hma lamah an uai thlaktir a, chu chuan an serh chu an hliah tir mai a, chu chu Hnawkhal an ti, tiin Sialhawk Middle School-ah kum 1958 khan a sawi a. Pi Darbuki, kum 1877-a piang pawhin a sawi thin bawk. Hei hi a pawmawm deuh ber awm e. Tin, pi puten Len tlang an chuan chhuah a, la an chin a, puan an tah hnu chuan Hruikhau aiah laa tah an hmang a, chu chu ‘Hrenpereng’ emaw, ‘Hren’ emaw an vuah zel tho. Hetiang Hren kaih hi kum 1950 vel thleng khan Mizoram khaw kilkhawr deuhah chuan an la ching nghe nghe.

A tlang lo kawm dawn tawh ila. South East Asia-ah chuan kum BC 1500 vel khan thing hih theih hruia siam an inbel tawh a. Burma ramah pawh kum 1000 BC velah silhfen te deuh tak, kawnga ven theih inbelin, khaw vawh hunah puanin an inkhuh a. Mizo thlahtu bulte chuan kum zabi 4-na (AD) vel khan China leh Tibet ramri vela an awm laiin silhfen an nei tawh a, Burma-ah tawlh lutin kum 800-1200 AD vel te khan Kawlphaiah inbengbelin silhfen leh kawng dang dangah dinhmun hniam lutuk loin an khawsa ang a. An aia chak zawk Shan ho nawr chhuah avangin Chin state-ah an kai a. Than tlang leh Run kam vela an awm lai, kum 1250-1400 AD vel khan, an environment-in a zir loh avangin an culture a hnungtawlh leh duai a. Siapsuap te hmeichhiain fengin hnawkhal mipain an inbel ta hial a. Mahse Len tlang an chuan chhuah chuan a ram leilung leh environment-in a zir tak avangin silhfen an lo buatsaih thei leh ta a. Chu chu kum 1450-1700 vel a ni mai thei a. Chuta tang chuan zawi zawia hmasawn hret hretin tun hi an lo thleng ta a ni.

Reference:

1.Rev.Liangkhaia – Mizo Chanchin, Bu-I. 1940. p. 45-25

VL.Siama – Mizo History, 1853. p. 10-11

Lalmama –  Mizo Titi, 1972 (chhut 9-na). p. 1-2:

Lalsuaka – Mizo Huntawng, 1982. p. 23 – 24

Remkunga –  Mizo Pi Pute, 1980. p. 13

2.Walter A.Fair Servis (Jr) : The Origin of Oriental Civilization, New York, 1959. p.165 & 166

3.Prof. Tan Thun – New Finds In Burmese History, Rangoon, 2007 (2nd edition). p.28

4.Prof. G.H.Luce – Old Kyaukse and the Coming of Burmans, Journal of Burma Research Society, June 1959, p.79

5.Edward Gate – A History of Assam, 1981 (2nd edition), p.37, 70.

6.B.S.Carey & H.C.Tuck – The Chin Hills, Vol. 1, Calcutta, 2008 (Reprint), p.216-217 inkar

7.NE Parry – The Lakhers, Calcutta, 2009 (Reprint) 108 &109 inkar.

8.Pu R.L.Thianga. Associate Professor. Govt. Hrangbana College-in ni 25 June 2008-a min hrilh a ni.

(He Paper hi Art & Culture Department leh Mizo Writers Association inkawpin an buatsaih, “Seminar on Mizo Traditional Textile”-ah, Ni 29th September,2011 khan Archives Hall, Babutlang, Aizawl-ah chhiar a ni)

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